Denim Dreams

High-end denim retailer Diesel (Breganze, Italy) began an extensive rebranding in 2013 that culminated in the opening of a new store concept this past December. The smaller boutique format will be rolled out globally to 120 stores through 2018.

The process, which included an overhaul of the brand’s advertising campaigns and a relaunch of its website, began with the hiring of Diesel Artistic Director Nicola Formichetti, who was charged with the brand’s reboot. Formichetti is well-known in fashion circles for his styling of pop star Lady Gaga, and most recently, hip-hop artist Brooke Candy.

Formichetti collaborated with Japanese interior designer Masamichi Katayama, principal, Wonderwall (Tokyo), on the 2800-square-foot space at 625 Madison Ave. New York was selected as the first location to unveil the new design, in part as a celebration of the retailer’s 20-year anniversary of its first U.S. outpost on nearby Lexington Avenue.

“This project’s process was quite unique,” explains Katayama during an exclusive interview with VMSD. “We created directives together. Our discussion was so organic, and the concept was born so naturally. This process was the [result] of a true collaborative effort.”

The pair landed on a simple, yet unexpected, idea: Create an apartment-like space as a symbolic new “house” for the brand. “[Diesel founder] Renzo Rosso’s personal vision for the store was quite intimate, and I was drawn to the idea of creating a salon-like area rather than a retail outlet,” says Katayama.

As customers enter the store into the foyer, they’re presented with Diesel’s Black Gold line, described as the brand’s signature style with a “nocturnal, urban” attitude. The “living room” houses the complete Diesel offering, and here, wood ceilings soar above sleek concrete floors, and antique furniture is paired with advanced technical materials. The juxtaposition of modern and traditional is no accident, says Katayama.

“We decided to design this store based on the keyword ‘apartment,’ while still incorporating the modern Diesel ideals of using technology. Ordinary life and extraordinary life are [merged] here, adding a strong identity. I wanted people to feel the intimacy of the store, [and] still feel comfortable,” he says.

The back of the space, inspired by a wine cellar, is home to the brand’s core denim collection. Stainless steel and glass installations convey a sense of quality, while Persian rugs add an organic touch.

“We incorporated elements we researched during the process, as well as [those we created] specially for the store. Customers feel the relationship with the item and interior design unconsciously,” says Katayama.

The store’s façade features a 3-D pattern that’s inspired by the “V” stitched on the back pocket of Diesel’s classic five-pocket jeans. True to form, high-tech materials used for the façade keep it clean via a process called photocatalysis: Cement mortar captures light, which accelerates the surrounding air’s natural oxidation to help decompose polluting elements in the atmosphere.