For an industry that has done its time in the red, and faced the tribunal of critics declaring its demise, the iconic department store restaurant remains steadfast.

Surviving from a time when ladies lunched in pillbox hats and T-strap pumps, these places face the challenge of remaining fresh, quintessentially chic destinations after a day of shopping. It’s a challenge that Saks Fifth Avenue (Fifth Avenue at 50th Street) decided to address.

The 1350-square-foot eatery, SnAKS, at Saks’ New York flagship, is one of three restaurants in the store. “Saks had done customer surveys and felt it needed a food and beverage space near areas where customers shopped the most,” says Keith Rushbrook, partner at II BY IV Design Associates (Toronto), the firm that created the snack shop.

As a result, the restaurant set up shop on the fifth floor in the women’s shoe department, generally a non-hospitality space. “We had to meet codes for restaurant service, like installing grease traps,” explains Rushbrook.

A simple layout with a long bar and clean chrome fixtures gives off a mod vibe. And there is no era of influence, despite the 1960s Warren Platner-designed steel wire chairs. “We chose the chairs because they’re sexy and modern,” says Rushbrook.

The lavender, gray and cream color palette offers a sophisticated, unisex dining setting. But women will find a more tailored detail with tabletop flip-down purse hooks to keep their latest Louis Vuittons off the ground.

“This look is classic, not trendy,” Rushbrook says. That’s evident at the entry, with its striking black-and-white photo of Rosie de Palma, the glamorous Spanish actress of many Pedro Almodóvar films.

Client: SnAKS Saks Fifth Avenue, New York – Bob Tonk, John Rawlins, Jill Buesing-Rotundo, Errol St. Pierre, Jack Arena, Frank Matz, Peter Chachura

Design: II BY IV Design Associates Inc., Toronto – Keith Rushbrook, partner; Dan Menchions, partner; Allan Tse, senior designer

Architect: INARCH, New York

General Contractor: J. Tucci Construction, Bayside, N.Y.

Floor Tile: Stone Tile, Toronto

Furniture: Knoll Studio, Toronto; La Palma S.r.l., Cadoneghe, Italy; TRI-V Custom Mfg. Inc., Concord, Ont.; Classic Crystal, Toronto; II BY IV Design Associates Inc., Toronto

Millwork: Salzburg Interiors, Brampton, Ont.

Graphics: Saks Fifth Avenue, New York

Glass: Classic Crystal, Toronto

Mechanical/Electrical: Avcon Design Group, New York

Paint: ICI Dulux, Toronto; Benjamin Moore, Toronto

Pendant Lighting: Eurolite, Toronto

Screen Fabrication: Marc Littlejohn, Toronto

Photography: Ben Rahn/A-Frame Inc., Toronto