New May Brands

May Department Stores Co. (St. Louis) has introduced a new line of what it called “proprietary” sportswear brands at a runway fashion show in New York.

The lines — be, i.e. and i.e. relaxed — will appear in May's full-line department stores in August.

“We are advancing May from the era of private label to an era of proprietary products that respond to our customers'needs and desires for distinctive yet wearable fashion,” said chairman and ceo Gene Kahn. “Let me emphasize we are not only building the dominance of our proprietary labels, we're also moving to offer true proprietary brands.

“We are differentiating our merchandise assortments and making the 'casual lifestyle'the cornerstone of our merchandising initiatives,” he said. “This supports our strategy of continuing our appeal to our critical core customer — the baby boomer — and simultaneously broadening our customer base.”

In Kahn's descriptions of the three new lines, be is targeted at the 19-to-30-year-old woman — a recent college graduate, young married, young working woman, or young mother with a modern taste level and a fashion sense. i.e. and i.e. relaxed are targeted at the 31-to-44-year-old woman. The i.e. brand offers a modern tailored look, while its extension – i.e. relaxed – is more casual.

Kahn said that May's research indicated the 31-44 customer group is the most under-served segment of today's sportswear consumer. “This customer believes she cannot find the apparel she wants in department stores,” he stated. “We think i.e. has the potential to become our biggest-selling brand.”

May has developed fixtures designed exclusively for each of the new brands. The retailer said that contemporary, sleek units will feature steel and chrome. Multiple forms will also be used.

Lord & Taylor (New York), one of May's divisions, introduced its own proprietary brands last year: Identity and Kate Hill for women and Grant Thomas and Metropolitan by Lord & Taylor for men. And the company says they're among Lord & Taylor's best sellers. It said the newly introduced brands will build on the company's Lord & Taylor experience.

Kahn indicated that May's proprietary brands are currently projected to exceed 21 percent of sales in their respective merchandise categories this year, and are expected to exceed 25 percent in 2005 and to grow beyond that.