Up Close with Anna Zegna

Considering the economic climate, was there a lot of internal debate about such an extensive, expensive renovation?

When we made the decision to commission Peter Marino Architect to create a global store concept for our existing houses in Milan and New York and all those to come (Shinjuku Tokyo, Dubai, Hong Kong and Dubai for a start), the economic situation was stable. But we had already begun to see a shift in society at large and among our clients before the downturn.

What changed?
There was demand for products and brands with real values and traditions, service with real substance and store design that was truly inviting.

How did that influence the vision for the Milan and New York flagships?
The design Peter conceived integrated Zegna’s brands (from Z Zegna for a younger market to upscale casual to the couture and made-to-measure rooms) and the history of the company into one concept. This was a seismic shift. It’s the first time our stores were a 360-degree representation of the brands. He evolved the tri-brand strategy into three distinct visual paths—each represented within its own space and each with its own ethos. Though they look simple, the store design and construction are quite complex.

What were the biggest challenges in the New York renovation?
Creating a completely new visual concept, with separate and defined brands that had their own spirit but still came together synergistically into one great design. Peter and his team used more than 80 different types of materials to portray our hundred-year history and create the diverse retail zones. They used different furniture and fixtures to define the brand spaces. Each one is lighted in an individual way. Nothing is accidental with the design. All of the elements were selected strategically to work together to create the highest impact.

What was the biggest single change?
The lighting. It’s much more dramatic. Before there was more of a uniform approach to lighting. Now, there are spotlights and other specialty effects. The use of natural light is incredibly important thanks to the double-height façade. Opening up the front the building is a great design detail since the interior can be seem from far down Fifth Avenue.

What’s the next hot concept in retail design?
It’s becoming more understated and real. Customers don’t want to be distanced by store design; they want to be embraced. This idea was integral to our new concept. It’s why we have welcoming sofas throughout the store and warms colors blended with natural light.

What lessons are you taking away from the downturn?
That brands with values will survive and become even stronger. Ethics and service are now of paramount importance. They bring the consumer even closer to the brand. For us, this is the time for us to keep doing what we have always done—focus on authenticity, quality, elegance, ethics and service.

(For more on the makeover of the Zegna flagship and the other winning projects in VMSD's Retail Renovation Competition, click here.)