Ordinary Meets Extraordinary in Brazil

During my recent travels in Brazil, one observation was clear: The number of high-rise buildings under construction was prevalent in every city I visited. Traveling down the highway next to Balneario Camboriu, I quickly lost count of the number of new construction sites for these large developments. In Navegantes, a working-class town where my girlfriend’s family lives, the beachfront had significantly evolved to house new towers, a boardwalk and public amenities like volleyball courts, an outdoor fitness center, an outdoor live music venue and smaller buildings for rotating food vendors. Without extensive economic knowledge, the sheer scale of this building boom strongly suggests Brazil is experiencing a significant period of growth.

With the skyscrapers and economic development reshaping these Brazilian cities, it may be surprising that a hybrid fuel station and restaurant caught my attention. However, it remained with me even after my departure, mostly because I have witnessed numerous U.S. convenience store operators attempt to enhance their store and product offerings in recent years.

Degusta Café, Confeitaria & Pizzaria serves freshly prepared food, coffee, baked goods, and wine and beer. The environment is a cohesive blend of convenience store and French patisserie. Despite the quick and convenient nature of the attached fuel station, the food was excellent, and the store design was welcoming.

Degusta maintains clear site lines and has exterior glazing to allow natural light to fill the space. The entire space feels fluid and connected including distinct areas like the checkout desk near the store’s entry and the baked goods display – the latter of which allows cakes, pastries, and more, to stand out as the highlight of the space.

The main dining area feels both modern and warm: Pendant lights hang above tables while LED bars illuminate the space discretely. Printed graphics of dense greenery bring a biophilic element, and a solarium-type structure on the front of the building houses additional dining space and play area. The open doorway and windows connecting it to the main dining area allow it to feel open and connected to the overall store.

Degusta serves a variety of items for its breakfast menu, and its lunch and dinner menus consisted of choices of beef, chicken, fish, salads and typical side dishes. One day for lunch, I ordered beef tenderloin, which consist of two small filets, fries, a small salad, rice and beans. Degusta is also known for its pizza, which is served daily, and each Friday night during winter months they offer a soup buffet. Our waiter made us aware of the Friday buffet, and when he saw us arrive, he gave us a warm welcome knowing that we had acted on his recommendation. Couples, families and groups of friends filled the entire restaurant.

The store provides a parking lot right across the street, and the neighborhood clearly appreciates this amenity. One Saturday morning, a large group of cyclists chose to take a break over drinks and snacks. Early weekday mornings appeared to be the slowest time, and the solarium room provided a quiet spot to enjoy the morning light while watching people on their way to work or taking kids to school. They would stop for fuel or come inside to grab a pastry or other treat. All of the gas stations in Brazil are full-service and the employees could be seen each morning outside cleaning the concrete with water and squeegees when they weren’t filling gas.

There is something special about a place that is highly popular amongst the full demographic of its neighborhood, and it leaves an impression when a store combines convenience and necessities along with charm and delicacy.

Back home in Kansas City, one of the most well-known BBQ joints, Joe’s KC, started as a co-tenant in a gas station. While they have grown into multiple, larger locations, the original one remains a local landmark to this day. With the right location and offerings, there is a market opportunity, and other convenience operators in the U.S. have also been making efforts to combine the ordinary with the extraordinary. Degusta Café does it exceptionally well.

Photography: Matt Henderson