Chef Jean-Robert de Cavel recently entered the five-star-dining sweepstakes with his new restaurant, Jean-Robert at Pigall's, in Cincinnati. (See “Paris on the Ohio,” VM+SD magazine, May 2003, page 36.)
But de Cavel's unexpected special interest in his new project turned out to be the design and plan for the restaurant, in a townhouse that formerly housed the city's legendary Pigall's (which closed in 1990). “It's very important to me that people say, 'I'm comfortable here;' not, 'It's cold, uninviting and stuffy.' ”
“Comfortable rather than stuffy” would also describe the charming, Gallic chef, born in Roubaix, a French town near the Belgian border. After graduating from an apprenticeship at Le Feguide culinary school in Lille, France, he was chosen to work under master chef Joe Rostang at La Bonne Auberge, a Michelin three-star restaurant in Antibes. Rostang later sent de Cavel to the Malihouana Hotel in Anguilla, British West Indies, and eventually to New York, where at 26 he became the executive chef of the Le Regence restaurant in the Plaza Athenee Hotel.
He spent eight years as chef de cuisine of Maisonette, Cincinnati's – and the country's – longest-running five-star restaurant. In 2001, he left Maisonette to pursue the dream of opening his own establishment.
What elements of Jean-Robert at Pigall's most reflect its owner?
Attention to detail, with elegance but also with a comfortable and whimsical aspect and with a collaboration of artist friends to be part of the restaurant.
What is the highest compliment a guest could ever pay you?
“Between service, food and atmosphere, I had a wonderful experience with my friends. I will be back.”
What are the first words you want someone to say walking into your restaurant? What don't you want someone to say?
From guests familiar with the old Pigall's, we would want to hear, “What a beautiful change!” Not, “I preferred the old one.”
Where do you eat when you're in Paris? New York?
In Paris, at Michel Rostang. In New York, I know the owner of L'Absinthe, Jean-Michel Bergougnoux, so it's like going to see family. And DB is the new venture of the most successful, friendly French chef in the U.S., Daniel Boulud. Hip, beautiful people, and great food from duck confit to the best burger in the world.
Paris and Cincinnati: What's the difference?
A few million people. Both cities share a river, good food, museums, opera, symphony, etc. – even an Eiffel Tower [at Cincinnati's Kings Island amusement park] and part of the city on a mount. But I'm still looking for the Champs Elysee, the Baton Mouche and streets free of dog (droppings). I love Paris!
What could American restaurateurs learn from the French?
What about closing for four weeks vacation during the summer and two weeks during winter?
What could American diners learn from the French?
Taking time at midday to have lunch and a glass of wine with a friend – and not feeling guilty when going back to work.
What's always in your refrigerator at home?
Juice, yogurt, cornichons, mustard. And a few bottles of champagne ready to be opened at any time with some ice cream.
What do you like on your pizza?
Fresh farm goat cheese, spicy pepperoni sausage and very good quality anchovies.
What dessert would you kill for?
Macadamia chocolate tart from Karen Crawford, our pastry chef; and peanut M&Ms at any time of the day.