Checking Out: Maria Gustafson

You had a head start in understanding fixture manufacturing, didn’t you?
Yes, I grew up above my dad’s woodworking shop and showroom in Sutton, Mass. This was my playground growing up. I learned woodworking and antique restoration, which gave me a grassroots introduction to the business at a very young age. I grew up with the smell of sawdust – I could identify different types of wood just by the smell!

How does that help you in your work for Kiehl’s, as senior vp, global creative and retail store design?
It applies to everything I do every day. I learned the importance of translating a thought to paper, developing the sketch, drafting a blueprint, prototyping and refining. And the importance of accuracy. To this day, I can hear my parents say, “Measure twice, cut once!”

You worked for ad agencies before going to MAC Cosmetics. What makes you love the brand side?
I think I get the biggest thrill seeing one of our products grow from an idea into a complete retail experience. I love working with the product development and marketing teams to crack the brief, understand the formula and get to the heart of the message. We then personify our product in retail stores and the digital space through packaging, windows, events – it’s so rewarding to see it come to life in the stores that we’ve designed from scratch.

Does Kiehl’s, as a brand, give you special satisfaction?
It’s an authentic brand with a real, honest story. Kiehl’s is a pharmacy brand, born and raised on the Lower East Side of New York, with over 160 years of expertise. To quote my copy creative, we think of our products as one-of-kind personalities you can’t wait to meet.

Do you have to love the brands you work on?
If I don’t believe in the product, it becomes a difficult job for me. Passion, honesty and trust come through in your work. It comes off as being legit, not fake. I’ve always been fortunate to love the clients, wear the clothing, use the product.

The holidays are such a key time for your industry. What is Kiehl’s doing this season?
Ah, my favorite time for retail programs, because Kiehl’s pushes the limit with special product and package designs. We partner with some of the most exciting artists today like Kaws, Jeff Koons, Kenny Scharf, Craig+Karl – and this year, with the Norman Rockwell Foundation – to create one-of-a-kind artwork. I’m honored when I see someone walking around town with a limited edition holiday bag from three years ago. Supreme satisfaction!

Peter Arnell. Richard Kirshenbaum. Doug Lloyd. You’ve worked with some dynamic, eccentric, creative ad people. What have you learned?

• Creative needs to be unexpected and disruptive to get people to “talk” about it.
• Always go against the herd, be interesting and experiment with “guerrilla tactics.”
• You must be a great editor to develop clever, yet brand-appropriate, concepts into something truly visionary.
• Never copy another brand.
• It’s okay to fail. And, by the way, was it really failure?
• Be sure that people remember what you’re actually advertising.
• A little wit and humor goes a long way.